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| © simon stewart 2014 |
For the last few days I have been interviewing female models who replied to an ad my studio ran looking for individuals for catalogue modelling.
Fashion photography is a fairly general term and specifically includes a number of extremely varied disciplines. Not all fashion photographers are suitable for all aspects of fashion photography and likewise not all models are either.
A major part of my business is catalogue work. Some believe it to be the least sexy side to the industry, the "Coalface of Fashion."
Commercial catalogue work is by brief definition: capturing images for designers and manufacturers and or importers/wholesalers/retailers of ranges of garments and accessories with the specific intention of making the garment as appealing as possible while maintaining a high degree of clarity with respect to garment detail. Catalogue images require the garment to be the hero and the model definitely in line for a bronze if on the podium at all.
So What Qualities am I After ?
My clients generally are looking for a model to fit a UK size 8/10 dress, shoe size 7 and be a height of not less than 1.7m Models MUST fit the garment and not the other way around.
There is a bit of flexibility with height and weight - certainly considerably more than in high fashion work - but those are the parameters that we are generally after. In addition, I look for a well proportioned frame with a pleasing torso to leg ratio. No skinny calves if I am shooting legs and no overdeveloped quads if the dress is above the knee or the garment is a short pant.
Good forearm to upper arm balance is also important if I am shooting sleeveless garments. A heavy upper arm will need to be "slimmed" in post production. Uniform and symmetrical features and good skin is a plus as again the sheer volume of images required for catalogue prohibit excessive post production work due to budget constraints.
Poise, balance and grace in movement, relaxed hands and shoulders as well as joint flexibility are all aspects that I desire in a model. A pleasant demeanour and eagerness to accept direction are givens. Eight hours and fifty garment changes are enough to test any models sense of humour - so best you start out with one.
The "Interview."
Anyone who has been to Studio Yellow knows it's a pretty chilled and comfortable environment. Once the model come through to the studio I always start off with a portrait style headshot. It allows me a few minutes to look at the models features as I set up the shot. We chat a bit, so I get to know the model a bit better and hopefully for her it's calming plus she gets a portrait to take home and give to Gran or whatever. Frankly by the time the portrait is over - and it never takes longer than 2 to 3 minutes - I know if the model is going to make the short list.
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| © simon stewart 2014 |
We then head over to the high key stage and shoot some classic poses; full on and 3/4 looks
and try a few variations of whatever comes to mind dependant on the model and the garment she is wearing.
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| © simon stewart 2104 |
I always shoot tethered and the images are displayed on a 30 inch Mac cinema screen at the work station for the client to view as well as a 42 inch Sony Bravia opposite the high key shooting area purely for the models to monitor their posing.
At this point I often discuss typical posing problems with regards to hands and eyes, tense shoulders etc not only to try and assist the model for future gigs - hopefully at my studio - but also to ascertain the responsiveness of the candidate and how well advice - which could be construed as criticism - is taken.
Quite often the model may have been influenced by fashion editorial poses and it takes me a while to convince them that catalogue and editorial are worlds apart.
In catalogue the objective is to show the garment off as much as possible. Hands and hair covering crucial detail and elements of the garment structure - no matter how cool or trendy it may look - will have a client asking for a refund or reshoot in no time.
Generally this exercise takes ten or so minutes and we fire off maybe 20 shots as we chat away. It is always enthralling for me that after such a short time we generally capture a fairly decent useable commercial shot even if the model has had no real previous experience.
Commercial modelling is not for the feint hearted. Too many models chasing too few gigs drives the daily rate down and expect early call times and a full days work. It is however a portal into the Fashion Modelling industry - no matter how humble.
